Yeats Country Guide - Day Two
Glencar to Yeats's Grave to Rosses Point
Welcome to Day Two of the Yeats Country Guide. If you are in a bit of a rush and want a straight answer on which of the three guides you definitely must do, then this is it. We took great pride in writing the other two guides, but this day has you visiting possibly the most famous grave in Ireland – Michael Collins’s shrine notwithstanding. While visiting a grave may seem a grim task, this feels more like a pilgrimage and a chance to pay homage. Yeats of course took great pride in having his grave where an ancestor had worked, where the surrounding landscape played a key part in Irish mythology and of course in penning that most enigmatic of epitaphs: ‘Cast a cold eye on life, on death horseman pass by.’
We’ve devised a route that ensures you can take plenty of good photos and get to the key locations. Glencar lake is just inside of County Leitrim and the council can be proud of the fine job they have done in ensuring the facilities are up to scratch – just don’t bring pets. Try and organise a time of day when the place is not too hectic with tourists and families – it can get busy in high season and the road is narrow on the way back to the N15.
Map of Day Two Points of Interest (POIs) locations
Click on each POI for more info
Day Two - starting point
N16 to Manorhamilton
GPS Location: 54.282961, -8.45329
Narrators: Mary Murphy and Sean McMahon
Get yourself on to the N16 to Manorhamilton in order to start Day Two of this Yeats Country Guide. It’s windy and shaded in parts, so definitely have that high vis jacket on so everyone can see you if you’re cycling the route! In our audio piece. Mary and Sean set the scene on Yeats’s fascination with the Celtic twilight. Today’s route encompasses some of its famous sites before coming to Yeats’s resting spot.
Directions
The N16 is a scenic route that will take you high above Glencar valley on your left within the next five miles. Ignoring the first sign for the Glencar waterfall, we’ll be taking you anti-clockwise around the lake to get to the waterfall. Carry on out the N16 and look out for a viewing park of the lake on the left. After this, you will be driving another 2 kilometres before turning off left where signposted. Click here to be brought to the viewpoint by Google Maps. Please note the map above has included extra points of interest for the sake of directions only e.g. the Glencar car park or the turn off for the N15 to help you move with ease on the tour. These POIs aren’t included below as they do not have audio attached to them.
Glencar lake and waterfall
GPS location: 54.340271, -8.37323
We’ve guided you to the car park by Glencar lake. It’s got clean WCs available and adequate parking for everything from buses to motorhomes. This car park may be the best place from which to do a proper walking tour of the area. Please note, no dogs are permitted at the waterfall.
The waterfall is believed to be the site which inspired The Stolen Child and is an enthralling place. Make sure you climb the 100 or so easy steps on the looped walk, right past the waterfall to get to the hazel bush where rags or votives have been tied to it where believers have made wishes. Any fans of The Stolen Child song will enjoy the accompanying video featuring the deep voiced man who read the words.
Directions
After the waterfall, you’ll be continuing your anti-clockwise journey around the lake taking you near Ben Bulben on your right. There are one or two lakeside scenic spots to pull over and enjoy the view away from the hoards who may well be at the waterfall.
By the shores of Glencar lake
GPS Location: 54.33762, -8.404841
One of the many tranquil spots along the lake where the scenery is worth stopping for. Maybe even a place for a picnic?
In our audio piece, we move away from fairy lore and onto Irish mythology as under Ben Bulben is where the Fianna warriors hunted and where we tell you the story of Diarmaid and Grainne. To find out more about Grainne, Fionn, the Fianna and Cúchulainn, go to our Irish Mythology archive.
A Faery Song (sung by the people of Faery over Diarmaid and Grainne, in their bridal sleep under a cromlech)
We who are old, old and gay, O so old!
Thousands of years, thousands of years,
If all were told: Give to these children, new from the world,
Silence and love; And the long dew-dropping hours of the night,
And the stars above: Give to these children, new from the world,
Rest far from men. Is anything better, anything better?
Tell us it then: Us who are old, old and gay, O so old!
Thousands of years, thousands of years, If all were told.
As they were on the run from her husband Fionn McCumhaill, Diarmaid and Grainne (Diarmuid and Grania) are said to have spent the night in the shelter of a cave in Benbulben, known as Diarmaid and Grainne’s Bed.
Directions
We’ll be guiding you along Ben Bulben on your right until you get back to the N15 main road. At this T junction, take a left turn. It’s a short drive – note just before Drumcliffe, take the signs for Lissadell House on the right. if in a hurry, skip this step, but ensure you hear the Yeats debate! Click here to be brought to the N15 turnoff by Google Maps.
Carney
GPS Location: 54.336437, -8.527212
Narrators: Pro Yeats Mary vs Anti Yeats Sean!
You are driving through Carney, a small but well-serviced village, with two good restaurants and pubs, a Chinese take away and even a football team called Yeats FC!
Directions
Carry on to Lissadell House. In our audio piece, Mary and Sean give their honest opinion of Yeats and his legacy – it makes for a lively listening! Click here to be brought to Lissadell by Google Maps.
Lissadell House
GPS Location: 54.344031, -8.57777
Please note that Lissadell House has a limited opening season. Best to check the Lissadell website when planning your visit closer to the time. Lissadell is famous as the childhood home of Constance Markievicz, one of the leaders of the 1916 Rising; the first woman to be elected to Dáil Eireann, where she served as Minister for Labour, and also the first woman to be elected to Westminster Parliament in London. Her brother, Josslyn, created at Lissadell one of the premier horticultural estates in Europe. Yeats was friendly with the Gore Booths, and has immortalised Lissadell in his famous poem.
In a great coup for Sligo, Lissadell House managed to persuade Yeats fan Leonard Cohen to perform here in 2010. As you’ll see from the accompanying video, Leonard even managed to recite the famous poem above.
Directions
Return to Carney and to the N15 where you’ll be turning right for Drumcliff which you’ll effectively be in when you take that left turn. You’ll be heading towards the round tower and parking past it in the Drumcliffe church car park.
Drumcliffe church car park
Location: 54.325334, -8.493741
You are now in the village of Drumcliffe, firmly put on the map when W.B. Yeats’s remains were interred here some nine years after his death in France in 1939. After a long and somber route back from Roquebrune where it lay in state both there and in Sligo Town, he was laid to rest as per his instructions in “Under Ben Bulben”. In an ironic twist, the Government was represented by its Minister for External Affairs, Mr. Sean McBride, son of Maud Gonne.
Yeat’s Grave, Drumcliffe church
After parking up, go to the the front of the church on the right. Yeats’s grave is marked in front of you with Ben Bulben visible through the cemetery trees. If the church is open, ensure you pay it a visit. If the excellent booklet by Derick Bingham entitled ‘The Eye of the Heart’ is still in print, it’s well worth a read. The resting place of Ireland’s greatest poet, William Butler Yeats, is as near perfect a location as you’d expect for such an evocative wordsmith.
Directions
We’ll be turning left on to the N15 coming out of the car park and heading towards Rosses’ Point via Rathcormack village.
Rathcormack
GPS Location: 54.31955, -8.48289
Rathcormack is a small village at the base of a valley. You may wish to take note of an art installation honouring Countess Markievicz by the roadside on the left. Please note traffic moves fast in this section.
Directions
Rising on a brae from it towards Sligo, get ready to turn right at the top of the brae for Rosses Point – it is signposted although, please note the sign is for Kintogher.
Rosses Point
GPS Location: 54.304105, -8.561783
Yeats loved Rosses Point and first experimented with the paranormal here, encouraged by his cousin’s housekeeper who had the ˜second sight’. Today excellent restaurants and pubs meet all your needs, even if they can’t predict your future!
Yeats stayed at Elsinore House when he was in Rosses Point. It is now a ruin and is just below the statue in the picture above on the way to the pier. There’s talk every few years of doing up the derelict site, but as you’ll see, nothing has happened!
Directions
After Rosses Point, make your way back to Sligo Town. In town, we have listed the key Yeats sites you may wish to visit.
Congratulations
We hope you’ve managed to complete Day Two in one piece with a good thirst and a healthy appetite. Sligo Town can ensure both needs are met – the town has a lot to offer as the website below will demonstrate, so don’t be in any hurry to leave just yet!
Try our Donegal’s Hallowed Sites if interested in further adventures across this most scenic of regions. If you enjoyed this guide, please ensure you let others know on social media or feel free to leave us feedback.
John Ward, Racontour Productions, August 2022
Discover the Magic of Irish Seasons: Traditions and Changes
Experience the enchanting shifts of Irish seasons, rich in traditions and cultural changes that connect the past
with the present. Discover the magic today!
Spring in Ireland: Traditions and Celebrations
As the chill of winter begins to wane, Ireland bursts into a vibrant array of colors and renewed life. Spring in
Ireland is a time of rebirth and rejuvenation. The season starts with St. Brigid’s Day on February 1st, marking
the beginning of the Celtic spring. St. Brigid, one of Ireland’s patron saints, symbolizes fertility and the
arrival of longer, warmer days. Traditionally, Irish families weave St. Brigid’s crosses from rushes, believed
to protect homes from fire and evil spirits. These crosses are hung in homes and barns, embodying the hope and
protection that spring brings.
Another significant event in the Irish spring calendar is St. Patrick’s Day on March 17th. This global
celebration of Irish culture is marked by parades, music, dancing, and a plethora of green attire. Originally a
religious holiday honoring Ireland’s patron saint, it has evolved into a celebration of Irish heritage
worldwide. Towns and cities across Ireland host parades featuring floats, marching bands, and performers, creating
an atmosphere of joy and community spirit. Traditional Irish music and dance performances are integral parts of the
festivities, drawing locals and tourists alike.
Spring also heralds the start of agricultural cycles, with farmers preparing their fields for planting. This season
is crucial for the rural communities, as it sets the tone for the year’s harvest. Traditional spring fairs and
markets spring up across the country, offering fresh produce, handmade crafts, and a taste of rural life. These
events are not only essential for the economy but also serve as social gatherings that strengthen community bonds.
The return of longer days and the blossoming countryside invigorate the Irish spirit, making spring a time of
optimism and communal celebration.
The Beauty of Summer: Festivals and Activities
The arrival of summer in Ireland is met with great anticipation and excitement. From June to August, the country
transforms into a vibrant playground of festivals, outdoor activities, and natural beauty. The summer solstice,
celebrated around June 21st, is a significant event in the Irish calendar. Historically, ancient Celts marked this
longest day of the year with bonfires and feasting. Today, people gather at ancient sites like Newgrange and the
Hill of Tara to witness the solstice sunrise, connecting with the traditions of their ancestors.
One of the most iconic summer festivals is the Galway International Arts Festival, held in July. This two-week event
features a diverse program of theatre, music, visual arts, and street performances, attracting artists and audiences
from around the world. The festival transforms the city of Galway into a bustling hub of creativity and cultural
exchange. Similarly, the Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann, the largest traditional Irish music festival, takes place in a
different town each August, showcasing the best of Irish music, song, and dance.
Summer is also a time for exploring Ireland’s stunning landscapes. The Wild Atlantic Way, a scenic coastal route
stretching from Donegal to Cork, offers breathtaking views, charming villages, and opportunities for outdoor
adventures. Hiking, cycling, and water sports are popular activities, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the
country’s natural beauty. Beaches, though often chilly by international standards, become hotspots for locals
and tourists alike. The blend of cultural festivities and outdoor pursuits makes summer in Ireland a season of
endless possibilities and joyful experiences.
Autumn in Ireland: Harvest and Cultural Significance
As the leaves turn to shades of gold and crimson, autumn in Ireland brings a sense of reflection and gratitude. The
season is deeply rooted in agricultural traditions, with harvest festivals celebrating the bounty of the land.
Lughnasadh, the ancient Celtic festival marking the beginning of the harvest season, is celebrated on August 1st.
Named after the god Lugh, it involves feasting, music, and games, reflecting the community’s gratitude for the
earth’s abundance. Though modern celebrations are more subdued, the spirit of Lughnasadh persists in local fairs
and gatherings.
Autumn is also the time for Samhain, the ancient festival that marks the end of the harvest and the beginning of the
darker half of the year. Celebrated on October 31st, Samhain is considered the precursor to Halloween. It was
believed that on this night, the veil between the living and the dead was at its thinnest, allowing spirits to roam
the earth. People would light bonfires and wear costumes to ward off these spirits. Today, Halloween in Ireland is a
blend of ancient traditions and modern festivities, with children trick-or-treating and communities hosting haunted
attractions and events.
The cultural significance of autumn extends to literature and the arts. The Dublin Theatre Festival, held in late
September and early October, is one of the oldest and most prestigious theatre festivals in Europe. It features a
mix of Irish and international productions, highlighting the richness of the performing arts. Additionally, the
Wexford Festival Opera, taking place in October, showcases lesser-known operas and attracts opera enthusiasts from
around the globe. These cultural events, combined with the natural beauty of the changing landscape, make autumn in
Ireland a season of introspection and artistic inspiration.
Winter Wonders: Traditions and Festivities
Winter in Ireland is a time of warmth, reflection, and festivity, despite the cold and often damp weather. The
season is marked by a series of traditions that bring light and joy to the darkest months. The winter solstice,
occurring around December 21st, has been celebrated since ancient times. At the prehistoric site of Newgrange in
County Meath, the solstice sunrise illuminates the inner chamber of the tomb, an awe-inspiring spectacle that draws
visitors from around the world. This event symbolizes the triumph of light over darkness and the promise of longer
days to come.
Christmas in Ireland is a blend of religious observance and joyous celebration. The season begins with Advent, as
homes and churches are adorned with wreaths, candles, and nativity scenes. On Christmas Eve, many attend Midnight
Mass, a tradition that underscores the religious significance of the holiday. Christmas Day is a time for family
gatherings, feasting, and exchanging gifts. Traditional foods such as roast turkey, ham, and plum pudding are
enjoyed, and the evening often ends with songs and stories by the fire.
The festive season continues with St. Stephen’s Day on December 26th, also known as Wren Day. In some parts of
Ireland, people dress in old clothes and straw masks, parading through towns while playing music and singing. This
tradition, rooted in ancient customs, symbolizes the triumph of the wren, considered the king of birds, over the
darker days. New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day are celebrated with fireworks, parties, and resolutions,
marking the end of one year and the hopeful beginning of another. The blend of ancient customs and modern
festivities makes winter in Ireland a season of warmth and renewal.
The Role of Nature in Irish Seasonal Changes
Ireland’s seasons are profoundly influenced by its natural environment, with the landscape playing a central
role in the country’s cultural and agricultural practices. The mild, temperate climate ensures that each season
is distinct yet not extreme, allowing nature to flourish year-round. Spring’s arrival is heralded by blooming
daffodils, lambs frolicking in fields, and the gradual lengthening of days. The lush, green countryside comes alive,
reflecting the renewal and growth that characterize the season.
Summer’s warmth and extended daylight hours provide the perfect conditions for outdoor activities and the growth
of crops. The landscape is dotted with wildflowers, and the coastal regions become popular destinations for hiking,
swimming, and exploring. The fertile soil and favorable weather conditions support a diverse range of flora and
fauna, making summer a time of abundance and natural beauty. The interplay between the land and the sea, with its
rugged cliffs and sandy beaches, adds to the unique charm of the Irish summer.
Autumn’s arrival brings a transformation in the landscape, as trees don vibrant hues of red, orange, and yellow.
The harvest season reflects the culmination of the year’s agricultural efforts, with fields yielding crops and
orchards laden with fruit. The crisp air and shorter days signal a time for reflection and preparation for the
winter ahead. Winter, though often harsh with its cold winds and rain, has a stark beauty of its own. The bare trees
and snow-dusted hills create a serene, almost mystical atmosphere. The natural cycles of growth, harvest, and rest
are deeply intertwined with Irish traditions and way of life, making nature an integral part of the seasonal
experience.
Folklore and Mythology Associated with Each Season
Irish folklore and mythology are rich with stories and legends that reflect the country’s deep connection to the
natural world and its seasonal changes. Spring, for example, is associated with the goddess Brigid, a figure of
fertility, healing, and poetry. Her festival, Imbolc, marks the beginning of spring and is a celebration of new life
and the return of the sun. Legends tell of Brigid’s magical cloak, which could expand to cover vast areas of
land, symbolizing the growth and protection that spring brings.
Summer’s mythology is filled with tales of the Tuatha Dé Danann, a race of god-like beings who are said to have
brought magic and prosperity to Ireland. The festival of Bealtaine, celebrated on May 1st, honors these deities and
the start of the summer season. Fires were lit on hilltops to welcome the sun and protect against evil spirits. The
legend of Lugh, the god of light and the arts, is also central to summer celebrations. His festival, Lughnasadh,
marks the beginning of the harvest and is a time of feasting, games, and merriment.
Autumn’s folklore is dominated by the festival of Samhain, a time when the boundary between the living and the
dead is believed to be at its thinnest. This night is filled with stories of spirits, fairies, and otherworldly
beings. The legend of the Púca, a mischievous shape-shifting fairy, is particularly associated with Samhain. It was
believed that the Púca would roam the countryside, playing tricks on unsuspecting travelers. Offerings of food and
drink were left out to appease these spirits and ensure a safe passage through the dark months.
Winter’s mythology is rich with tales of the Cailleach, the divine hag of winter. According to legend, the
Cailleach is responsible for the harsh winter weather, and her reign begins at Samhain and ends at Bealtaine. She is
depicted as an old woman with a staff, capable of summoning storms and frost. The winter solstice, celebrated at
Newgrange, is also steeped in mythology. It is said that the solstice light represents the rebirth of the sun god,
bringing hope and renewal. These stories and legends add a layer of magic and mystery to the changing seasons,
reflecting the deep cultural significance of nature in Irish life.
Seasonal Foods and Culinary Traditions in Ireland
The changing seasons in Ireland bring a variety of culinary delights, with each season offering its own unique
flavors and traditional dishes. Spring’s arrival is marked by the availability of fresh, seasonal vegetables
such as asparagus, new potatoes, and rhubarb. Lamb, a symbol of spring, is a popular choice for Easter Sunday
dinner, often roasted with herbs and served with mint sauce. Traditional dishes like colcannon, made with mashed
potatoes and spring greens, reflect the season’s bounty and the importance of locally-sourced ingredients.
Summer’s abundance is celebrated with a wide array of fresh produce, seafood, and dairy products. The long, warm
days are perfect for outdoor picnics and barbecues. Freshly caught fish and shellfish, such as salmon, mackerel, and
mussels, are staples of the summer diet. Strawberries, raspberries, and blackberries are in season, often enjoyed in
desserts like Eton mess or simply with a dollop of cream. The tradition of afternoon tea, with its selection of
sandwiches, scones, and cakes, is also a beloved summer pastime.
Autumn’s harvest brings a wealth of hearty, comforting foods. Root vegetables like carrots, parsnips, and
turnips, along with apples and pears, feature prominently in autumnal dishes. The harvest festival of Lughnasadh is
celebrated with breads and cakes made from the first grains of the season. Traditional Irish stews, made with lamb
or beef, potatoes, and vegetables, provide warmth and sustenance as the days grow shorter. Apple tarts and crumbles,
often spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg, are popular desserts that capture the essence of autumn.
Winter’s chill calls for rich, warming foods that provide comfort during the darkest months. Christmas dinner is
a highlight of the winter season, with roast turkey, ham, and all the trimmings taking center stage. Mince pies,
Christmas pudding, and rich fruitcake are traditional holiday treats, often enjoyed with a glass of mulled wine or
Irish whiskey. St. Stephen’s Day is a time for leftovers and simple fare, such as bubble and squeak made from
the previous day’s vegetables. Soups and stews, made with seasonal ingredients, are staples of the winter diet,
providing nourishment and warmth.
Modern Interpretations of Irish Seasonal Celebrations
While many of Ireland’s seasonal celebrations are rooted in ancient traditions, they have evolved to incorporate
modern influences and practices. Today, St. Brigid’s Day is not only a celebration of the coming spring but also
a time to honor women’s achievements and contributions to society. Contemporary events include women’s
gatherings, workshops, and performances that highlight the strength and creativity of Irish women. Similarly, St.
Patrick’s Day has expanded beyond its religious origins to become a global celebration of Irish culture and
heritage, with cities around the world hosting parades and festivals.
The Galway International Arts Festival and other summer events reflect the blending of traditional and contemporary
culture. These festivals showcase a mix of traditional Irish music and dance alongside modern art forms, creating a
dynamic and inclusive atmosphere. The rise of food festivals, such as the Taste of Dublin, highlights the growing
interest in Ireland’s culinary scene. These events celebrate local produce and innovative chefs, offering
visitors a taste of modern Irish cuisine while honoring traditional flavors and techniques.
Autumn’s cultural events, like the Dublin Theatre Festival and the Wexford Festival Opera, demonstrate the
continued importance of the arts in Irish life. These festivals provide a platform for emerging and established
artists to share their work, fostering a vibrant cultural community. Halloween, with its roots in the ancient
festival of Samhain, has embraced contemporary customs like pumpkin carving and trick-or-treating, while still
honoring its mystical origins through events like ghost tours and storytelling sessions.
Winter’s festive season has also seen modern interpretations of traditional customs. Christmas markets, inspired
by European traditions, have become popular in cities like Dublin, Galway, and Belfast. These markets offer
artisanal goods, festive foods, and entertainment, creating a magical atmosphere for holiday shoppers. New
Year’s Eve celebrations, including fireworks displays and concerts, have grown in scale, bringing communities
together to ring in the new year. These modern interpretations of seasonal celebrations reflect Ireland’s
ability to honor its past while embracing the present, creating a rich and dynamic cultural landscape.
Conclusion: Embracing the Seasons in Irish Culture
Ireland’s seasons are more than just changes in weather; they are deeply woven into the fabric of the
country’s culture, traditions, and way of life. From the rebirth of spring to the festive warmth of winter, each
season offers its own unique experiences and opportunities for connection. The traditions and celebrations that mark
these changes provide a sense of continuity and community, linking the past with the present.
Nature plays a central role in shaping these seasonal experiences, with the landscape’s beauty and bounty
influencing cultural practices and culinary traditions. Folklore and mythology add a layer of magic and mystery,
enriching the understanding of the natural world and its cycles. Modern interpretations of seasonal celebrations
demonstrate Ireland’s ability to adapt and evolve, honoring ancient customs while embracing contemporary
influences.
In embracing the seasons, Ireland celebrates its heritage, creativity, and resilience. Whether through traditional
festivals, culinary delights, or the simple enjoyment of nature’s beauty, the magic of Irish seasons continues
to captivate and inspire. As each season unfolds, it offers a new chapter in the ongoing story of Ireland, inviting
all to experience its enchantment and wonder.
